A fridge not working is often a simpler problem than a dead compressor, so check before you panic. A loose plug, a thermostat knob moved by accident, a door that does not shut fully or a coil thick with dust can all make the food warm and the freezer weak. Those are things you can check yourself in about ten minutes.
This page follows the order a technician would use at your door: power first, then settings, then airflow and door seal, then the parts that need a trained person. It also covers the smaller complaints people search for, such as a refrigerator light not working, a freezer working but fridge not working, a fridge fan not working and a fridge stabilizer output not working.
Common causes
1No power at the socket or a loose plug
How to tellDisplay, light and sound all dead; other items on the same socket also dead
What fixes itTest the socket with another device, push the plug in fully, check the MCB
2Thermostat knob set too warm or moved
How to tellFridge runs but food is only cool; knob sits near the lowest number
What fixes itSet to a middle setting, wait a full day before judging
3Door not sealing
How to tellDoor springs back open, frost around the edge, a paper strip slides out easily
What fixes itClean the rubber gasket, level the fridge, do not overload the shelves
4Dust-choked coils and blocked airflow
How to tellCompressor runs long and the back or sides feel very hot
What fixes itSwitch off, then clean the outer coils and clear space around the fridge
5Frost blocking the cooling fan or vents
How to tellFreezer is cold but the fridge section is warm, or a fan rattles
What fixes itDefrost fully with the plug out, keep vents clear of food
6Voltage swings or a faulty stabiliser
How to tellFridge clicks off and on, stabiliser shows cut-off or no output
What fixes itCheck the supply, wait out the stabiliser delay, call an electrician
7Sealed system or compressor fault
How to tellMotor hums or clicks but never cools, or it never starts
What fixes itAuthorised technician only; do not open or add gas
How to fix it, step by step
Confirm the fridge really has power
Look for the light, the display or the hum of the motor. Plug a phone charger or a lamp into the same socket to test it. Check that the plug sits fully in and that the MCB for that room has not tripped.
After a power cut, a healthy fridge may stay quiet for several minutes before the compressor restarts. That delay protects the motor, so give it at least five minutes before you decide it is dead.
Check the temperature setting
Many fridges have a dial with numbers or a button panel. Children, cleaners and loading food can nudge it. Put it at a middle setting, close the door and leave it for 24 hours. Turning it to the maximum does not cool faster and can freeze vegetables.
Close and test the door seal
Close a strip of paper in the door at several points. If it slides out with no pull, the gasket is not gripping there. Wipe the rubber with warm water and a cloth, dry it well, and check that the fridge is level and the shelves or bottles are not holding the door open.
Take food out of the way of the vents
Cold air needs room to move. A fridge packed to the walls, or boxes pushed against the rear vents, makes the lower shelves warm. Spread items out and let hot food cool before you put it in.
Clean the coils and give the fridge breathing space
Unplug the fridge first. On models with coils at the back or underneath, a soft brush or a vacuum with a brush head removes the dust. Do not poke tools into the machine. Keep a gap of a few centimetres at the back and sides, and away from a hot wall or the stove.
Defrost if ice has built up
If the freezer wall is thick with ice or the fridge section is warm while the freezer feels cold, unplug the unit, empty it and leave the doors open for several hours with towels on the floor. Do not chip ice with a knife, because the cooling pipes sit behind the walls.
Look at the stabiliser, if you use one
Most stabilisers wait a short time after power returns before they pass supply to the fridge. If the output stays off, try plugging the fridge straight into a good wall socket for a test only. If it runs, the stabiliser or the mains voltage is the problem. See home inverter not working if your backup supply is involved.
Write down what you see and call service
Note the model, any code or blinking light, the sounds it makes and how long it has been warm. Check the manual's code table or ask the maker's authorised service. Do not remove back panels or touch wiring.
Fridge light not working: bulb, switch or something else
A fridge light not working does not mean the cooling has failed. It is usually the bulb, the small door switch that tells the light when to turn on, or in newer fridges an LED strip with its own cover. Press the door switch by hand with the door open. If the light stays off, remove the cover only if the manual shows how, and change the bulb of the exact type listed there.
Many LED lights are sealed units, so the fix is a part from the maker, not a bulb from a shop. If the light is on but the fridge is warm, go back to the cooling steps above.
Unplug the fridge before touching any bulb or cover. A fridge light that stays on with the door closed can warm the cabin, so have the door switch checked.
Freezer working but fridge not, or the other way round
| What you see | Likely area | Who fixes it |
|---|---|---|
| Freezer cold, fridge section warm | Blocked vent, frosted fan or damper on frost-free models | You first, then technician |
| Fridge cool, freezer weak | Door seal, overloaded freezer or a defrost fault | You first, then technician |
| Both warm, motor hums | Start parts or compressor | Technician |
| Both warm, no sound | Power, thermostat or control board | You check power, then technician |
A weak door seal can also come from a door magnet in the gasket that has lost grip: a fridge door magnet not working shows up as the paper strip sliding out easily. A gasket replacement fixes it. Direct cool and frost-free fridges are built differently, so the reasons differ. Your manual says which type you own.
Error codes and blinking lights on a fridge
Fridges with a display may show a code or flash an indicator. The meaning depends on the maker and the model year, so a list copied from another model can mislead you. Look in the manual's fault table, or ring the maker's authorised service desk with the model number from the label inside the cabin. Common fault families include temperature sensors, the fan, the defrost system and the control board. All of these need a technician to confirm.
The panel flashes a temperature symbol and the fridge section warms up overnight. You find the freezer is full of ice around the fan cover. After a full defrost the fridge cools again, so the flashing was linked to blocked airflow. If it returns, the sensor or fan needs testing.
Fridge not working: when to call a technician and what raises the bill
Call service if the fridge stays warm after power, setting, seal and defrost checks, if the motor clicks and stops again and again, if you smell burning, or if water leaks from the sealed parts. Never refill gas yourself, never open the sealed system and never bypass a sensor or the thermostat.
What you pay follows the part that failed. A gasket, bulb or thermostat is the light end of the scale, while a control board or fan motor sits higher, and a compressor or sealed system job is the heaviest. The age of the fridge and its warranty also count, so get the part named and the quote in writing. For a similar kitchen-side issue, see washing machine not working. Other cooling appliances are listed in the AC and appliance error codes guide.
Keeping the fridge healthy
Wipe the gasket every few weeks, clean the coils twice a year, never cover the top with heavy items that block heat escape, and avoid opening the door for long. If your area has frequent voltage swings, ask an electrician about a suitable protector for the fridge.
Frequently asked questions
Why is my fridge not working but the light is on?
The light only proves the fridge has power. The cooling system can still be off because of a thermostat setting, a frozen fan, a dirty coil or a compressor fault. Work through the setting, seal and airflow checks first.
Why is the refrigerator working but the freezer not freezing?
The motor runs, so power is fine. Common reasons are a door that does not seal, an overloaded freezer, thick frost on the cooling parts or a defrost fault. Defrost fully first, then call service if the freezer stays weak.
Why is my fridge light not working?
Usually it is the bulb, the door switch or an LED unit that has failed. It is separate from the cooling system, so food can still stay cold. Unplug the fridge before you touch any cover.
Why is my fridge fan not working?
On frost-free models ice can jam the fan, or the fan motor can wear out. Defrost the unit and see if the sound returns. A fan that stays silent after that needs a technician.
What should I do if the fridge stabiliser shows no output?
Wait for its switch-on delay, check the wall socket, and test the fridge on a good socket once. If the fridge works there, the stabiliser or the supply voltage needs an electrician's check.
Is it safe to keep food in a fridge that is not cooling?
Not for long. Move milk, cooked food and meat to a cool box with ice or to another fridge within a couple of hours, and throw away anything that smells or has been warm for a long time.